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How do you install artificial grass?

To install artificial grass, clear the old turf, build a firm, level base of compacted aggregate topped with sharp sand or fine dust, lay a weed membrane, then roll out the grass, join it, fix the edges and brush in any infill. The base takes most of the work, and it decides how the finished lawn looks.

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By the QuoteZila editorial team. Editorial policy.

What do you need before you start?

Artificial grass looks simple once it is down, but a good result depends on planning and preparation. Before you buy anything, measure the area carefully, including any curves or beds, and sketch it on paper. Rolls come in fixed widths, so the layout decides how many joins you will have and how much waste you will cut off.

You will usually need:

  • the artificial grass, bought with some spare for trimming
  • a weed membrane
  • crushed aggregate for the sub-base
  • sharp sand or fine granite dust for the levelling layer
  • edging, such as timber, plastic, steel or a concrete haunch
  • joining tape and outdoor adhesive
  • galvanised nails or pins for fixing the edges
  • kiln-dried sand for infill, if the product needs it

For tools, a turf cutter or spade, a wheelbarrow, a rake, a long straight edge, a plate compactor, a sharp knife with plenty of spare blades, and a stiff brush or power brush cover most jobs. Plate compactors and turf cutters can usually be hired by the day.

Read the instructions for the grass you buy before you start. Base depths, infill and fixing methods vary between products, and following them matters if anything goes wrong later.

How do you clear the old lawn?

Start by taking up the existing grass and roots. A turf cutter makes this much quicker on a larger lawn. Dig out to the depth your base needs, and remove roots, large stones and any rubble. If you are digging near drains or outdoor cables, find out where they run first.

Old turf and soil add up quickly. Keep some for the garden if it is useful, or arrange a skip or a collection. GOV.UK says that if you hire a private company to move waste, you should check that they are registered [S1].

If the area has a lot of weeds, especially ones with deep roots, deal with them now. A weed membrane helps, but persistent weeds can still push up at the edges.

How do you build the base?

The base is the most important part of the job.

  1. Fit the edging. Set your edging around the area, level and firm. It holds the base in place and gives you something to fix the grass to.
  2. Lay the sub-base. Spread crushed aggregate across the area to the depth the manufacturer recommends. Rake it level.
  3. Compact it. Go over the aggregate with a plate compactor in more than one direction until it is firm and does not move underfoot. Add more and compact again where it sinks.
  4. Add the levelling layer. Spread a thinner layer of sharp sand or granite dust over the top. Screed it level with a straight edge, then compact it again.
  5. Check the falls. A perfectly flat base can hold puddles. A very gentle fall towards a drain, a border or away from the house helps water clear.

Take your time here. Every bump and dip in the base will show through the grass once it is laid.

If you use a plate compactor, power brush or other electric tool, Electrical Safety First says to use a residual current device (RCD) with all outdoor electrical equipment [S2]. It also says not to use electrical equipment outdoors until it is dry, even if there is only dew on the ground [S2].

How do you lay and join the grass?

  1. Lay the membrane. Roll the weed membrane over the base and overlap the edges. Some products also go under a shock pad or foam underlay at this stage.
  2. Roll out the grass. Unroll the first piece and let it relax in the sun for a while if you can, so creases drop out. Check the direction of the pile: every roll must face the same way.
  3. Position the rolls. Lay the next roll alongside, so the edges sit tight without overlapping. Keep the joins away from where people walk most, if the layout allows.
  4. Cut the edges. Trim along the selvedge, the rough strip at the edge of each roll, so the stitch lines meet cleanly. Cut from the back with a sharp blade, changing it often.
  5. Join the rolls. Fold back both edges, lay joining tape shiny side down along the seam, apply adhesive, and press the edges down onto it. Make sure no fibres are trapped in the glue.
  6. Trim to shape. Cut around the edging, beds and curves. Take a little off at a time, because you cannot put it back.

How do you finish the edges and infill?

Fix the perimeter to your edging with nails, pins or adhesive, as the product instructions say. The grass should be held tight so it cannot lift or ripple.

If your product uses infill, spread kiln-dried sand evenly over the surface in thin passes and brush it in against the pile so the fibres stand up. Do not overfill. Finish by brushing the whole lawn with a stiff brush or a power brush to lift the fibres and hide the joins.

Clear up offcuts and packaging. Small offcuts can be useful for a doormat or a dog area, but most will need disposing of.

What are the common mistakes to avoid?

  • Skimping on the base. Lumps, dips and soft spots are almost always base problems.
  • Ignoring drainage. Water that cannot escape leads to smells, moss at the edges and a soggy feel.
  • Mixed pile directions. Rolls facing different ways make the joins stand out.
  • Visible joins. Cutting too much or too little selvedge leaves a gap or a ridge.
  • Loose edges. Grass that is not fixed firmly can lift in wind or be pulled up by pets.
  • Laying in the cold. Artificial grass is stiffer in cold weather and harder to lay flat.

When should you call in an installer?

A small, flat, square area with a wide gate is a reasonable DIY job. A larger lawn with curves, slopes, steps, poor drainage or awkward access is often quicker and neater with an installer, who will have the compactors, power brushes and practice.

If you do hire, ask what base they will build, how deep, how they will deal with drainage, and how they will fix the edges and joins. Citizens Advice suggests trying to get written quotes from at least 3 different traders before you decide [S3]. If you are looking for someone local to do the whole job, the guide to finding an astroturfing installer covers what to ask. For the cost side, see the artificial grass cost guide.

Jobs you might post

These are examples, not taken from real job posts. "Please quote to remove the old back lawn and install artificial grass, with a full base and timber edging." Or: "Small front garden, would like artificial grass laid with a membrane. Old turf to be taken away." Or: "Artificial grass to go over existing paving on a patio, with a foam underlay."

Get quotes for artificial grass installation

If you would rather have the job done for you, describe the area, the size, what is there now and the access, and add photos. QuoteZila is starting in Cheshire, with Crewe, Nantwich and Sandbach among the first towns, and anyone in the UK can post a job. Up to five matched local businesses can reply [QZ2]. QuoteZila is free for customers and local businesses [QZ1].

Honest status: QuoteZila is new. We're starting in Cheshire, beginning with Crewe, Nantwich and Sandbach, and growing area by area. Anyone in the UK can still post a job or register a business. How fast you get quotes depends on how many local businesses have joined near you. Businesses can register and receive jobs straight away. We don't check insurance, qualifications or registrations, so please check these yourself before you hire.

Posting a job is not open yet

See the landscapers page or the gardeners page.

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Questions about installing artificial grass

Can artificial grass be laid straight onto soil?

Laying it straight onto soil is not a good idea. Soil moves, holds water and lets weeds through, so the grass ends up lumpy and soft in places. A compacted aggregate base with a fine levelling layer and a weed membrane gives a firm, even surface that drains.

Can artificial grass go on concrete or paving?

Yes, if the surface is sound and drains. A foam underlay is usually laid first to soften the feel and hide joints in the slabs underneath. Check that water can run off or through, because standing water under the grass will cause problems.

Which way should the pile face?

Most artificial grass has a pile that leans one way. Many people lay it so the pile faces the house or the main viewing point, which usually looks fuller. All rolls must face the same way, or the joins will show.

Do I need sand infill?

It depends on the product. Some artificial grass is made to be laid with kiln-dried sand brushed in, which helps the fibres stand up and weighs the grass down. Others are made to be laid without infill. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the product you buy.

Should I install artificial grass myself or hire someone?

A small, flat area with good access is a fair DIY job if you are fit. Large lawns, slopes, poor drainage, and lots of joins or curves are where an installer earns their money. Many people get quotes before deciding.

Does QuoteZila check the businesses who quote?

No. We don't check insurance, qualifications or registrations, so please check these yourself before you hire. You can report a quote or a business from your job page.

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Sources

  1. QZ1: QuoteZila product fact. QuoteZila home and jobs-for-tradesmen copy.
  2. QZ2: QuoteZila product fact. QuoteZila terms and matching notes.
  3. S1: Report fly-tipping or litter, GOV.UK. Accessed 2026-10-30. https://www.gov.uk/report-flytipping
  4. S2: Staying safe in the garden, Electrical Safety First. Accessed 2026-10-30. https://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/guidance/safety-around-the-home/garden-safety/
  5. S3: Before you get work done on your home, Citizens Advice. Accessed 2026-10-30. https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/getting-home-improvements-done/before-you-get-building-work-done/